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    Build a Miter-Saw Workstation





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    Tools and Materials

    This article originally appeared in Taunton's Trim Transformations (2005)

    Photos by Stephen Carver; Illustrations by The Taunton Press, Inc.


    How to Make

    Build a miter-saw workstation

    Assemble the sawhorsesclick to enlargeReady the sawhorses

    Assemble the sawhorses: The workstation will fit on any pair of sawhorses with 2x4 crosspieces. If you need to make a pair, cut two 2x4 crosspieces 32 in. long and eight legs 30 in. long. Assemble the sawhorses, driving 11⁄4-in. screws through the sawhorse brackets into the legs and crosspieces.

    Attach blocks & the saw

    Assemble the sawhorsesclick to enlargeCut supports and cleats

    Cut the 2x4 supports & cleats: The front of your saw will sit on the 10-ft. 2x6. Cut a 45-in. length of 2x4 to support the back of your saw. Pairs of 2x4 cleats hold the supports on the sawhorses. Cut four 2x4 cleats 31⁄2 in. long and two that are 5-1⁄2 in. long.

    Assemble the sawhorsesclick to enlargeWork on the cleats

    Lay out the cleat positions: The 45-in. 2x4 support and the 10-ft. 2x6 support both require short cleats that straddle the sawhorse. Clamp the 2x4 and 2x6 supports together with their centers aligned and use your square to lay out cleat locations. Extend layout lines down one side of each support piece.

    Assemble the sawhorsesclick to enlargeAttach cleats

    Attach the cleats: Clamp each cleat in place between its layout lines, check that it is square to the 2x6, and drive two 3-in. screws through the 2x6 into the cleat. Do the same for the 2x4 support. Nice work so far. Get your supports set up on the sawhorses.

    Assemble the sawhorsesclick to enlargeWork on the bolt holes

    Drill for bolt holes: If you have a power miter saw, you’ll attach and remove it quickly and without tools using 3⁄8-in. bolts and wing nuts. Center the saw across the 2x6 support, flush to the front. Adjust the back of the 2x4 flush to the back of the saw. Using a 7⁄16-in.-dia. drill bit, bore through the holes in the saw base and into the supports. You can remove the saw to complete the holes. Put the saw back in place and bolt it down, using a washer at the top and a washer, lock washer, and wing nut at the bottom.

    Assemble the sawhorsesclick to enlargeCut support blocks

    Cut support blocks: Four blocks, two attached to each side of the 2x6, support long pieces during cutting. To determine the length of your blocks, measure from the front of the 2x6 to the saw fence and add about an inch—7 in. worked for the saw shown here. Cut a piece of 2x4 long enough to make all four blocks. The blocks must be at the same height as your saw table. Place the 2x4 you just cut against the table, and mark the height. Rip-cut the 2x4 to this width, then cut it into four blocks.

    Assemble the sawhorsesclick to enlargeAttach the blocks

    Attach support blocks: Attach two of the support blocks near the ends of the 2x6 by clamping them in place and then driving 3-in. screws up through the bottom. In the same way, attach the other two blocks 14 in. from each side of the saw.

    Assemble the sawhorsesclick to enlargeGood to go

    Go to work: Okay, now you’re set up like a pro to cut some trim. You’ll find yourself using this station for other tasks too—supporting workpieces for predrilling or cutting cope joints, for example. So go to it. Take your time, remember your safety glasses, and, most of all, enjoy the experience of making your home a more beautiful place to live.



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