Special Sections
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8 Woodworking Joints
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The Butt Joint: The Easiest Joint of All
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The Butt Joint: The Easiest Joint of All
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The Butt Joint: The Easiest Joint of All
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The Butt Joint: The Easiest Joint of All
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The Butt Joint: The Easiest Joint of All
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The Butt Joint: The Easiest Joint of All
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The Butt Joint: The Easiest Joint of All
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The Butt Joint: The Easiest Joint of All
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A Butt Joint Variation: Joinery with Pocket Screws
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A Butt Joint Variation: Joinery with Pocket Screws
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A Butt Joint Variation: Joinery with Pocket Screws
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A Butt Joint Variation: Joinery with Pocket Screws
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A Butt Joint Variation: Joinery with Pocket Screws
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A Butt Joint Variation: Joinery with Pocket Screws
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A Butt Joint Variation: Joinery with Pocket Screws
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A Butt Joint Variation: Joinery with Pocket Screws
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Biscuit Joinery: An Easy, Machine-Cut Method
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Biscuit Joinery: An Easy, Machine-Cut Method
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Biscuit Joinery: An Easy, Machine-Cut Method
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Biscuit Joinery: An Easy, Machine-Cut Method
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Biscuit Joinery: An Easy, Machine-Cut Method
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Biscuit Joinery: An Easy, Machine-Cut Method
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Biscuit Joinery: An Easy, Machine-Cut Method
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Biscuit Joinery: An Easy, Machine-Cut Method
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Lap Joints: Another Simple Technique
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Lap Joints: Another Simple Technique
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Lap Joints: Another Simple Technique
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Lap Joints: Another Simple Technique
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Lap Joints: Another Simple Technique
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Lap Joints: Another Simple Technique
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Lap Joints: Another Simple Technique
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Lap Joints: Another Simple Technique
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Finger or Box Joints: Easy to Cut with a Tablesaw or Router Jig
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Finger or Box Joints: Easy to Cut with a Tablesaw or Router Jig
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Finger or Box Joints: Easy to Cut with a Tablesaw or Router Jig
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Finger or Box Joints: Easy to Cut with a Tablesaw or Router Jig
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Finger or Box Joints: Easy to Cut with a Tablesaw or Router Jig
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Finger or Box Joints: Easy to Cut with a Tablesaw or Router Jig
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Finger or Box Joints: Easy to Cut with a Tablesaw or Router Jig
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Finger or Box Joints: Easy to Cut with a Tablesaw or Router Jig
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Dovetail Joinery: The Most Famous Technique
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Dovetail Joinery: The Most Famous Technique
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Dovetail Joinery: The Most Famous Technique
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Dovetail Joinery: The Most Famous Technique
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Dovetail Joinery: The Most Famous Technique
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Dovetail Joinery: The Most Famous Technique
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Dovetail Joinery: The Most Famous Technique
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Dovetail Joinery: The Most Famous Technique
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Mortise and Tenon: A Traditional, All-Purpose Joint
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Mortise and Tenon: A Traditional, All-Purpose Joint
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Mortise and Tenon: A Traditional, All-Purpose Joint
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Mortise and Tenon: A Traditional, All-Purpose Joint
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Mortise and Tenon: A Traditional, All-Purpose Joint
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Mortise and Tenon: A Traditional, All-Purpose Joint
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Mortise and Tenon: A Traditional, All-Purpose Joint
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Mortise and Tenon: A Traditional, All-Purpose Joint
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Frame-and-Panel: Great for Doors and Wide Panels
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Frame-and-Panel: Great for Doors and Wide Panels
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Frame-and-Panel: Great for Doors and Wide Panels
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Frame-and-Panel: Great for Doors and Wide Panels
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Frame-and-Panel: Great for Doors and Wide Panels
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Frame-and-Panel: Great for Doors and Wide Panels
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Frame-and-Panel: Great for Doors and Wide Panels
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Frame-and-Panel: Great for Doors and Wide Panels
Bandsaw Push Stick
Photo: Steve Scott
A long reach keeps fingers safe when resawing. This stick is made from 1⁄2-in. plywood, and the shape is cut on the bandsaw. Edges are rounded over with a rasp or router.
Photo: Steve Scott
Use a long push stick at the bandsaw. This allows the user to push the workpiece from behind the fence without risk of running thumb or fingers into the blade.
By Peter Schlebecker
Resawing—or slicing stock along its face to make thinner boards—is a great reason to have a bandsaw. But the operation requires care, especially when the fence is close to the blade. The trick is to push the stock from the rear at an even rate all the way through the cut, and keep your fingers out of the way as the blade emerges from the tail end of the workpiece.
Almost any length of scrap will work as a push stick for this task, but it’s nice to have one with a comfortable grip nearby. The dedicated stick we use is easy to make—another shape cut out on the bandsaw. Make sure the stick is long enough so that the front end reaches just past the blade while the rear is still a couple of inches behind the fence. This way, the fence won’t interfere with your grip as you finish the cut.
(Originally printed in the Sept/Oct 2006 issue of Fine Woodworking magazine (FWW #186))
October 31, 2010
